The Scotland of the East: Shillong

Shillong is a hill station in the northeastern part of India and the capital of Meghalaya, which means “The Abode of Clouds” . It is the headquarters of the East Khasi Hills district. It is said that the rolling hills around the town reminded the British of Scotland. Hence, they would also refer to it as the “Scotland of the East”.

Well frankly all that was copied from Wikipedia. But let me take you on a journey through my eyes.

It was early week of February. I started from Mumbai the city of the hustlers; also the dreams!It was a one stop flight via Kolkata. We boarded an ATR; a small aircraft with about 80 seats. Well it was my first time!

A turbulent flight landed us on a small airport in the lap of hillocks and pine trees. The view was indeed something I had not seen since long. As far as the eyes could see it was yellow dried grassland meeting the horizon.

Unlike the metropolitan airports, it barely had people. The cold breeze and open fields with lavender flowers welcomed us.

As we stepped out to take a taxi there we could sense the honks and long queues were amiss. A few young lads covered in leather jackets were strolling about clacking in their tongue; the words of which we could not fathom. Mongolian faces spotted the flabbergasted father daughter duo and started uttering a word or two in broken Hinglish( English and Hindi).Well after a bit of negotiation, on we went through the valleys.

Long trails of tall trees touching blue clear skies and roads meandering through the open luscious green farms were delightful.

As the car spiraled through the rising elevation, we overlooked to the serene green clad valleys.Women could be seen plucking tea leaves at a terrace tea farm. The warm sun glistening through the window warmed our cold bodies. After an hour drive from the airport, we reached our villa. We decided to explore the locality after lunch.

Our villa was near the North eastern hill University. As we walked through the road, I couldn’t help but notice, how tranquil the place was. Fleeting between one end of the city to the other back in Mumbai one usually forgets to pause and soak in peace.

As the car wheeled further; the village life unraveled itself. Nestled in the hilly terrains was a Christian graveyard. A man carrying wooden basket trekked along; peeping into our car.

The bitter cold was beginning to chill our bones post sunset. We stopped by the Police Bazaar also known as the commercial hub of Shillong to grab a quick cup of coffee. The backdrop of the quiet valleys shifted to streets and corners bustling with people and hawkers. Smell of spices and street vendors crying out the bargains, made it a vibrant evening.The girls sported front flicks, furry coats and long boots. The shops had apparel, accessories and jewelry inspired by Chinese fashion trends. Fancy bags and winter clothes had lined up the streets, well a shopaholics paradise no doubt! After a few hours of hopping the street stores, we reached our villa.We retired for the day after dinner. The night at the villa was freezing cold at 1 degree.

The next morning we drove off for our Shillong sight-seeing.The long stretches of grassland relaxed us and at the same time the sharp turns and rocky roads made it a bumpy ride.

On our way to Dawki 85 kms from Shillong the afternoon sun accompanied us. One such hut my eyes met had foreigners sitting with the locals. They were grooving to the local tunes. Along the rocky paths that peeled the rising hills, the locals women and men alike were squatting and sipping hot tea.

Something one can’t miss trod-ding through the streets of Shillong are the toddlers dazing behind the curtains of the village huts. Cuddled in their mothers back sack or running around behind piglets and hens; these sweet little children are sure to steal your heart. Their faces with flattened nose and pink cheeks made me want to click their adorable photographs.

These kids unlike the city dwellers have sturdy legs striding along slant slopes. I spotted one with a blue cap merrily climbing a steep rock.

A question came to my mind; why are we humans unable to leave behind all our worries? We carry it around wherever we go. I had left the city but I had pictures of congested streets, crowded trains and my ears were still ringing with noises of traffic. It was not predominant but it was vaguely present. I asked this question to my father. He explained a term called ‘Blankology’. I was intrigued. I wanted to google it but well there was no network. Laughing at my curiosity he expressed that it was a term coined by him. Haha! He told me about how the mind keeps on holding onto the past or feeling anxious for the future. He told that the world will always be stressful but we should find something in our lives, while doing which we can blank out everything else. We should carve a special time for our own self. And we should do it often to forget our worries and live in the moment. That’s the definition of Blankology. In our fast paced lives we barely sit down to do something for ourselves. Unless we do our minds will always run towards unrest.

Our car rolled across the valley, and we reached Dawki. In midst of steep rocks and hills was a lake as pretty as a picture! Canoe like boats were floating on clear waters painted green by the sublime algae beneath. Well I made up my mind to take the boat ride. Me and my father boarded the boat.

The lake meets the river Umngot with gushing ripples at the mouth. White big stones line up the shores. The lake was spectacular with clear water that made the river bed visible. The boat floated across the calm and clean waters unveiling turns and caves in between the wild rocks.

The boat ride within the river gorge, so peaceful and soothing was indeed a stark contrast to the life in the urban jungle buzzing by. The lake ridges hangs the Dawki bridge a suspension bridge built by the British in 1932.

We then visited the Dawki Integrated Check Post. Dawki border crossing is on Dawki-Tamabil road. It is one of the few road border crossings between India and Bangladesh.

Then we drove to our next destination to Mawlynnong. Its a village also known as God’s Own Garden. Designed with flowered hedges and tidy streets, it looks like a replica of an European village. In 2003, Mawlynnong was awarded the title of the cleanest Village in Asia by Discover India. The villagers follow the age old tradition of keeping the village clean. It houses villagers who are part of the sustainable economy.

The handicrafts and home made items for sale spoke the art and culture of Meghalaya. Women wrapped in colorful woven shawls and children giggling inside the balcony were a common sight to behold.

Walking along we discovered the “Sky Watch” a 85 feet high bamboo structure created with bamboo and natural ropes. It offers a lovely view of the Bangladesh plains.

The artificial pukka roads lead to the untouched nature a few hundred steps below.While trekking down, we met an enthusiastic biker from abroad. Puffing for air in the cold ambiance, his excited face did challenge my fitness! After a 20 minute trek, we spotted the living root bridge standing strong since 200 years in the village of Riwai.

These breathing roots intertwined with each other have created a solid foundation to cross the stream below. The stream had massive rocks. Nature’s marvels are always beautiful to witness.

It was then dusk, at 5:30 sooner than the sun sets at Mumbai. The dark night was engulfing the hills . The bird’s eye view of the village lighting up slowly was a pretty sight. A few locals could be seen warming themselves aside a bonfire. I recalled, the lyrics of Ed Sheeran’s song;

Oh, misty eye of the mountain below
Keep careful watch of my brothers’ souls
And should the sky be filled with fire and smoke
Keep watching over Durin’s sons

If this is to end in fire
Then we should all burn together
Watch the flames climb high into the night

Ah well I am a dramatic kid. But the hills at dusk give out a mystical vibe.

After a 2 hour long drive, we got back to our villa. We had to dine out a few metres away from our abode. The cold was just getting under our skin, when by luck me and my dad got lift from strangers. Their welcoming faces warmed us up. We slept after dinner.

The next morning we had our flight scheduled to Mumbai via Kolkata. It was a short trip and I didn’t feel like leaving. The calm and cold breeze, pine trees standing tall on slanted ridges, little kids with sweet faces, the huts with red thatched roofs , clothes fluttering atop short houses and the picturesque nature had strung a chord or two in my heart.

So long, Shillong, adieu.